To Namche Bazzar

Namche Bazzar

This is what happened when I went on a trek to Everest Base Camp.

11th May 2010 – Day 2

This morning we got up a little later at 6.30am and wasn’t in pain like I expected. Today we set off on a 6 hour trek to Namche Bazzar which is at 344meters above sea level and 9km away from Phakding.

In my head this didn’t sound far but as soon as we started walking it was clear today was going to be a tough day. We were going up hill lots and although I did start using walking poles today, I have never used walking poles before and started with them too long. This meant going uphill was so hard. Once someone pointed this out things were much easier. Still tough though and to be honest I couldn’t really keep up too well. I felt a lot of pressure to go quickly because we were walking as a group of 12 plus the guides and I felt like people stuck behind me wanted me to go quicker. This made it really hard to get into the rhythm of walking.  But our guide Dawa told me that I would find the hills much easier if I took things slowly. Things are much more difficult because of the reduced oxygen  levels and when we are going uphill it makes you feel really out of breath.

One of the other trekkers, Nick, who has a fair bit of trekking experience told me I would find things easier if I just stopped thinking. This was amazing advice. I just put my iPod on and kept on going slowly, only stopping to let Sherpa’s carrying massive loads of bags or wood or even Yaks carrying trekkers bags.  I really don’t know how the Sherpa’s do it. Some of them don’t even have proper walking shoes just trainers and are only paid around 1000RPS per day which is around £10. This is nothing in comparison to the work that they do carrying heaving loads strapped to their backs up the steep paths.

The paths have some amazing views. I really like when we go over the long bridges which cross the valley because there is an amazing breeze as you cross although it does get a little scary because they are so high.

Today was definitely a very difficult day. My heart was beating so fast at times that I struggled to catch my breath and by the time we reached Namche tonight I was about ready to fall down. I’m a little worried as this isn’t even the longest day of walking. Base Camp seems like such a long way away.  Namche Bazzar is full of trekkers. Lots of them are either on the way to Base Camp or on their way back.  This is the place en-route where you can hire things like sleeping bags and buy food supplies.

My Ipod is really keeping me going so I will put in the posts which song has really helped today.

On My iPod – Frank Turner – The Road

The First Day

Internet access was either limited or really expensive on the trek and to be honest I just wanted to concentrate on enjoying it so I kept a diary and will write up my all my entries.

10th May 2010- Day 1

We got up at 4am to get the bus to the airport. When the alarm went off it felt like I have only just shut my eyes. I had packed up all my kit in the holdall provided and taken it to the bus. All 12 of us sat there, me and my new virtual stranger friends with the exception of Jemma and Jenny. All I kept thinking is, I hope we all make it to Base Camp. It’s so far. Why am I doing this?

I was struggling massivley and running off adrenaline already because of staying up later than planned to pack my bags anxouis not to forget anything but not to take too much. I would have sorted things out earlier but was busy helping out another girl on the trip, Rosie who had arrived from India and forgotten the PIN number for her bank cards so had no money. In the end we talked a travel agent into selling her a cheap flight to Pokora and giving her the cash she needed if she paid on a credit card. It must have been quite scary to arrive in a country without any money.

When we arrived at the domestic airport the sun was already up and we carried our bags from the bus to the smallest check in area you have ever seen. After which we boarded the smallest plane I have ever been on to take us to Lukla. It was actually a very smooth flight and even had an air hostess who walked down the very small aisle to distribute sweets and cotton wool. It hardly seemed worth it for just the 12 of us plus our Head Trek Guide Dawa. It seemed really funny that even though I was at the back of the plane I could see all the way to the cockpit.

We landed on Lukla runway which is a site to be seen. It has only a 475meter runway that is sloping higher than the other and it is surrounded by mountains with a 700meter drop at the end. I was amazed we made it without any difficulty.

After we landed I had a breakfast of muesli and mint tea before we started walking. I soon realised why it was important to have good boots. The path was hard and rocky but we only trekked for 3hours to Phading which is at 2652 meters about sea level and has 73% oxygen.  We only walked 5k today so it felt really easy. I hope the rest of the trip is as easy as this but I think I can dream on!

The view from the plane

I found a video online of a plane landing there a few years back. It hasn’t changed much so you can see what it is really like.

We have arrived in Nepal

I just wanted to let you know we arrived safely yesterday in Kathmandu. We made a quick stop over en-route in Dubai which was surreal but amazing. As we danced on the beach in Barasti it didn’t seem like just that morning we had been in the UK. From there we took our flight to Kathmandu. To be honest we slept through most of it.

We arrived at Kathmandu’s airport which was deadly quiet. We were the only two getting visas (which are $40 for 30 days) and left to find our bags were the only two bags next to the carousel. The airport was tiny. When we went outside things were as expected, no taxi’s just a tourist bus. We met up with our Friend Jenny and took the crowded slow Tourist Bus into Thamel. This costs 100Rps and is put on to help tourists during the Maouist  Strikes which had stopped public transport and shut shops and Restaurants except between 6-8pm. As we drove across the city we passed protesters and Riot Police with batons. The place was so quiet and the people were so apologetic for the strikes.

We ended up walking through the back  streets with a very friendly Nepalese man who took us to Pilgrim Guest House in Northern Thamel. This is the most amazing place, central, quiet, friendly, cheap and has a restaurant. All the things we were looking for!

As we walked through the streets it was lined with people just waiting for the strikes to be over not being able to go to school or work. Today there was better news though as the strikes were called off (until 28th May we hear due to peace talks) and things returned to normal. This meant busy streets with the smells of cooking, incense and petrol fumes on every corner. It was so busy today it was hard to walk down the streets which hardly compared with yesterday where we seemed to be the only ones moving. Today everyone had a purpose.  There seemed to be so much going on you couldn’t take it in. So many shops and food stalls and even a few sacred cows walking down the middle of the road.
We then made our way in our first Nepalese taxi to The Monkey Temple. This gives you are really good view of Kathmandu (after you have climbed the 350 steep steps). There are lots of monkeys and we even had a spin of the traditional prayer wheels for good luck! I may need it. This temple  is 200Rps for tourists.

After here we drove on through the narrow streets around the pot holes to Durbar Square. For a World Heritage site I found this a little disappointing. It was over run with people trying to sell you things, tour guides and holly men who wanted you to pay to have photos with them. This all got a little much for me and with it costing 300Rps to get in  to help with conservation, I wonder how much is going back into protecting the site. We escaped the madness and harassment by going up to one of the Rooftop Bars which gave us a great view of the square.

The food so far has been amazing and I have been eating lots of Indian and Nepalese Dishes from Dhal Baat  to Biryani. I can’t wait to try more but am staying vegetarian for the time being especially after the chickens I saw get their throughts slit today. The local Everest Beer is also going down well. Not so good was the mouse that ran past while we were finishing dinner tonight but I guess I will get used to it.

I’m off to meet the rest of my trek buddies tomorrow so am really excited to see what they are all like and tell you all about them. I have also picked up the last few things I needed for the trip today getting trekking poles for 300Rps  each. We also found Shona’s which is a good quality trekking shop we heard about. It is run by an English man from Birmingham and his Nepalese wife. It sells genuine trek gear at cheaper prices than the UK so really we could have picked up everything here. Ho hum!

Anyway, I will write again when I can to let you know how I am getting on. I apologise for any weird grammar and spelling in this post as the keyboard is Asian and really hard to use, even the people here seem a little afraid of it. My trek starts on Monday morning so Im trying to get some sleep while I can. Early nights and early starts for me. Night Night.

Thamel in Kathmandu

The View of Kathmandu from The Monkey Temple

These Boots Were Made For Walking

I wrote this post before I left but didn’t get chance to finish it but thought I would post it anyway.

I was really excited about booking the trip to Everest but I knew there would be much more work involved. Even so, I  didn’t really start thinking about our trip until the end of January 2010. We were sent a kit list by STA but the more I read about on the internet the more I wasn’t sure what we should take.

Luckily, I have stated exchanging emails with a Couch Surfer who is also a trekking guide and between his advice, STA and my internet research I came up with this list. Again, I will let you know if this was the right thing when I get back. We have split lots of the medical supplies between us to save space as we are only aloud to give the porters 7.5kg to carry for us and the rest we have to take with us in our day sacks.

Travel Kit

Travel Adaptors

Battery Charger

Camera

Towel

Day Sack

Ear Plugs

Games

Head Torch

Passport Photos

Immunisation List

Money Belt

Mp3 Player

Note Book and Pen

Pack of Cards

Padlock/Keys

Guide Book and Phrase Book

Sleeping Bag and Liner

Snacks

Spair Camera Battery

Swiss Army Knife

Travel Alarm Clock

Travel Washing Line

Travel Wash

Trecking Poles

Vasaline

2 x 1ltr Sigg (Metal Type) Water Bottles

Medical Supplies

Aftersun & Sun Cream (Hight Factor)

Antihistamine tablets & spray

Antiseptic wipes/lotion (germaline)

Anti-sickness tablets

Cold/flu tablets/medicine

Deep heat pain gel

Imodium

Mosceto bite cream and Repellant

Painkillers

Plasters (Including Blister Plasters)

Rehydration tablets

Sleeping pills

Throat Sweets

Water Purifying Tablets

Clothes

2 Pairs of inner liner socks

5 Pairs of Walking Socks (Cool Max)

3 Tshirts – Long and short sleeve

Hat ( With Ear covers)

Bikini

Combat Trousers

Down Jacket

Fleece

Flip – Flops

Headband

Leggings

Sarong

Snood

Sunglasses

Thermal Base Layer top

Thermal Gloves

Waterproof Gloves

Thick Trousers

Trainers

Waterproof Gloves

Waterproof Trousers

Walking Boots

Now most things can be got in Kathmandu for a very good price but too be honest I have borrowed lots off friends. I will get my walking poles when I arrive but I have been told that the most important thing is good boots. I settled for the GRI Sport Lady Wolf which are really comfy and waterproof. They don’t need to be anything complicated just as long as they feel good and you have worn them a bit to break them in before you go. I got mine for £50 when I went on a training mission to Mount Snowdon. My Top Tip for avoiding blisters with any new boots or trainers is to cover your feet in Vaseline before you put your socks on. This not only means you don’t get lots of blisters but you end up with nice soft feet too! .

I went to Mount Snowdon with my boyfriend to pick out some boots and also see if I could manage to make it to the top. I have been really worried about my fitness levels so it was all about building my confidence. We went on the first weekend in April and it was absolutely boiling hot. We took the Llambaris Path which is meant to be the easiest but it was still really hard in parts because of the heat and how steep the path gets. Even though it was about 17 degrees when we got to the top it still had snow covering the path which meant it was really slippy. All in all including breaks it took us about 7 hours from the car to the summit and back. This a really good training walk for anyone wanting to be more prepared for the Everest trip. One of the shop assistants who had been to Everest even told me that the path isn’t all that different.

The View from Mt Snowdon Summit All Smiles when we reach the top of Mt Snowdon

In terms of health in Nepal I had to get a couple of vacinations (all of which you can get from a nurse at your Doctors Surgery. I had to have a Typhoid and Hepetitus A and B. This is really straight forward. I also went for a check up and to get a perscription for Diaomox which helps with altitude sickness. Something else I was recomended to help with that is Natural Coca. You can get this from somewhere that sells homeopathic remedies. It comes in tablet form and as a tea.

All Smiles when we reach the top of Mt Snowdon

I’ve taken out my insurance with Insure With Ease. I have year round

I have started gathering everything together and am taking the bus down to London on Thursday to fly out.

Join Me on Everest? I’m Freshly Pressed

Last Night after my last post I was totally overwhelmed when I posted my “I’m off to climb Mount Everest” blog post and it was chosen to be on WordPress’ Freshly Pressed front page. It meant lots of you visited  and posted questions and thought on my trip.

I just wanted to post my responses here so that I don’t miss anything and say A VERY BIG THANK YOU to anyone who posted kind words of encouragement and advice. 

floatfly said, on May 3, 2010 at 6:58 pm

Are you not worried that the recent political situation might affect your trip? There is currently a nationwide general strike, with most businesses shut, and maoist protesters filling the capital. Political change is long overdue in Nepal- but I am wondering whether to continue as planned with my own trip, flying to Nepal in 2 weeks time, or to scrap that idea and go to India for 3 months instead… There is currently no public transport in Kathmandu at all, not even taxis… I will be interested to hear how things go for you

Hi Floatfly, I have been watching this situation very closely. One of my friend’s Jenny is in Nepal already on a retreat although not in Kathmandu so she has been keeping me up to date from inside Nepal. To be honest, there is little information getting through to her at the moment though. I have checked with The Foreign Office and they think it is safe to travel, as do STA. In terms of transport, your right, no public transport is running but according to The Foreign Office Website some hotels are running buses as are the Nepal Tourist Board. And to be fair, if I have to walk it will be good practice for the Trek. I think I will take Morealtitude’s advice bellow.

morealtitude said, on May 4, 2010 at 6:17 am

Have fun with your adventure Claire. Nepal is a stunning country and a ramble up to EBC should be a hoot. I hope it leaves you with lots of great memories. I’m more than a little jealous and looking forward to the next chance I get to return to Nepal and hit up the same trail.

In response to floatfly’s concern about the political question, it is of course always a concern at the back of the mind that your logistics might get a little snarled by protests, but to be honest the Maoists know as well as anyone that tourism of the sort you’re coming to do brings huge revenues for Nepal, and they’re generally pretty good about not disrupting it too much. When I trekked to Annapurna Base Camp in late 2007 there were lots of the same concerns around political unrest, but we went through the country just fine and had a great trip. The Nepalese are beautiful, beautiful people and the country is magnificent. Take your chances and have a great time.

johnhauge said, on May 3, 2010 at 7:26 pm

i wonder if you’re going to pick up after yourself or just leave your litter in place like everyone before you?      just a thought.

John, I will of course be picking up after myself. This year a great effort is being made on Everest to clear up some of the rubbish that has been left by travelers and I hope to help where I can. We will be taking Metal drinking bottles not plastic and I will be sure to leave nothing behind.

Mike said, on May 3, 2010 at 9:43 pm

this is going to be a great blog. be sure to keep everyone updated. I’m curious what type of training went into this. Not only endurance, but high altitude?

I always felt as though i could train for the endurance aspect of something like this if i really wanted to, although i consider myself a strength athlete; it’s the high altitude that always concerned me…

Hi Mike, I have been walking lots. My next post will be include some of my notes on the training I have been doing. I was really concerned about this to begin with but most people I have spoken to say that if your endurance is good you tend to survive the altitude sickness better. We are lucky that our trip has lots of rest time to adjust. Your more at risk if your body doesn’t have time to adjust.

Jim Hagen said, on May 3, 2010 at 10:04 pm

Do you really think that the carbon footprint of your trip is worth feeding your ego?

Jim, you make a valid point but all I can say is that as someone who doesn’t own a car, I feel that if I can share this trip with you, and people like you to save you going then surely it is!

pepperedskye said, on May 4, 2010 at 10:41 am

Good Luck, sounds like it will be amazing, will you be taking photos?

Dan Wade said, on May 4, 2010 at 11:59 am

Sounds like an amazing adventure! You have to post pictures and stories!

http://danjswade.wordpress.com

Dan and Pepper, I will be taking lots of photos. I’m no professional photographer but I will try to do the best I can to show you what it’s like. I will of course share my stories. I will try to blog where I can and where I can’t I will be writing in my notebook to write-up for you later.

Agung Putradi said, on May 4, 2010 at 3:09 pm

I like this, Maybe I can climb this mount too.

Agung, don’t just think about it… DO IT! Go on… I dare you! If I survive this then anyone can.

I’m off to climb Mount Everest

This Thursday I’m off to Nepal to climb to Everest Base Camp so I though I would do some posts about everything I have been doing in preparation. This might help you out if you are planning a trip there as I was totally confused by all the information online. It also means you can come along with me for the ride and enjoy it all from the comfort of your own computer.

I decided to go to climb Everest with some close friends I used to live in Thailand with, Jemma and Jenny. When we were in Thailand in 2004 Jemma met a group of travelers who had been traveling for years to locations all over the globe. She asked them “Where is the best place you’ve been to?” They all agreed it was Everest Base Camp. And then in September Jemma got us together and asked if we wanted to go and see what all the fuss was about. Because I don’t like to back down from a challenge (and because I had drunk far too much Rose) I agreed! God knows why? I have absolutely no climbing experience and apart from the marathon I ran 2 years ago and the half marathon I did last year, I have never really been too into keeping fit.

Anyway, peer pressure aside, we signed up to STA’s Everest Adventure which you can find here

This is a 15 day trip which should mean that we aren’t going up too quickly. The trip accommodates around 12 people and because we booked early only cost us just over £500 not including flights. After a lot of research I found that one of the cheapest ways to fly to Katmandu was to go via Dubai. Luckey, I have friends there but even so you can get direct flights from London to Dubai for very reasonable prices if you book in advance or check Travel Supermarket then change onto a Dubai Budget Airline Fly Dubai for the Dubai-Kathmandu leg. This meant our flights came in at £450 return and we even get to stop in Dubai for a night out en-route. We are going to spend a few days in Kathmandu before we start to get over any jet lag and get ourselves acclimatised and a few days after to let our hair down and recover.

There are lots of different treks around but lots of people seem to recommend STA. I will let you know how I found it when I get back. Here’s the itinerary for the trek that we have been given by them:

Day 1 Arrive Kathmandu

Arrive in Kathmandu at any time.

Day 2-4 Pakding/ Namche Bazaar

Heading through pine and cedar woods along the Dudh Kosi to Pakding, encounter your first yak caravans carrying trekking equipment and supplies – including yours – towards base camp. Spend a day acclimatizing in Thame. Intricately carved mani stones mark the path to this large valley.

Day 5 Tengboche

Leaving Namche, the route is unbelievably beautiful. Hike through Sherpa villages and forests of fir and rhododendron to reach Tengboche Monastary, home to Tengboche Rinpoche, a Lama incarnate.

Day 6-7 Dingboche

Walk through alpine meadows of scrub juniper and wild flowers. From Dingboche, the mountain views are outstanding. Hike up the Imja Khola. The fluted ice walls flanking the Amphu Lapcha pass are one of the highlights of the trek.

Day 8-10 Lobuche/ Everest Base Camp

Climbing above the tree line, cross alpine pastures and glacial moraine to reach Everest Base Camp where colourful expedition tents give a bizarre appearance to this desolate place surrounded by walls of rock, snow and ice.

Day 11-13 Tengpoche/ Mongo/ Lukla

Descend the Imja Khola past Pangboche, the highest permanent settlement. Its gompa, the oldest in Khumbu, is built over the hermitage of Khumbu’s saint Lama Sanga Dorje.

Day 14 Kathmandu

You made it! Take a well-deserved rest and enjoy one last day with your fellow trekkers in this bustling city.

Day 15 Depart Kathmandu

The Lion From Harrods

I heard the lovely story of Christian the Lion over the weekend and on This Morning yesterday and thought I should share it:

In 1969 two Australian’s John Rendall and Anthony ‘Ace’ Bourke came to London for a Gap Year. This was at a time when you could buy anything you wanted from Harrods. It was noticed by lots of Christmas shoppers (including the Australians) that Harrods had two Lion cubs. The two decided they could give one of them a better life than being caged up and stared at all day and so spent around £3000 (I think) to buy Christian.

They kept him for a year living with them in their flat on The Kings Road above the shop that they worked in, which was aptly named ‘Catastrophe’. Christian was still a big draw for people and was visited by a whole host of celebs due to his tame nature. John and Anthony would walk him on a lead and take him to the park for a kick around but it was becoming apparent that he was getting too big for them to handle.Then after a chance meeting with Victoria Mckenna, one of the founders of The Born Free Foundation it was decided that they would try and return Christian, the 5th generation of his family to be born in captivity, to the wild with the help of conservationist George Adamson.

Although this was a big task Christian adapted well and took his place in a pride in Africa. A year later, the men returned to Africa to see if Christian would still remember them. That was when this lovely video was shot:

They met him once more the following year and haven’t seen him since. However, it was thought he went on to have cubs.

The story of Christian is going to be told in full tonight on Five at 8pm in ‘The Lion From Harrods.’ Don’t miss it!

The Brit Awards 2009

I’m very VERY excited! On Wednesday I will be going to The Brit Awards. I don’t care how un-cool some people think they are…I can’t wait. I have always wanted to go and this year I can’t quite believe I will be there!

The awards take place at Earls Court in London and are going out on ITV1 Live from 8pm presented by Gavin and Stacey’s Matthew Horne and James Corden as well as Kylie. It’s going to be so much better now they’re live, than it used to be when they were pre-recorded and broadcast the next day. I’m looking forward to seeing the live performances from Take That, U2, Kings of Leon and the Pet Shop Boys who have won the Outstanding Contribution to Music category. To see who else I will be rubbing shoulders with (and who else is performing and nominated) click here. I will let you know how I get on.

UPDATE: It was fantastic! Full on Red carpet action. Lots of great music and a very sore head by the next morning when I had to mission my way back to Birmingham.

Back from Barcelona

Sorry I have been slow on the blogging front but I have been recovering from Gigbeth/Gigbeth Fringe madness and celebrating my birthday in Barcelona.

First things first, The Gigbeth Fringe went really well. We packed out the front of The Rainbow and much fun, dancing and whooping was had to the sounds of Mama Matrix, Smileymic, Laura Louise and Marc Reck. Smashing!

I spent the next day working at Gigbeth. Even the heavy rain couldn’t dampen my spirits as I sang along to Things Can Only Get Better with D:Ream, took photo’s of Smileymic meeting the Sugarhill Gang and Dance my socks off when they performed Rapper’s Delight.

Smileymic meets The Sugarhill Gang

Smileymic talks about what it was like to meet the US hip hop legends as well as what happened while we were in The Green Room here.

Then bags packed and off to Barcelona. After a blurry eyed start and a slightly confused trip on the metro system my twin sister and I arrived in one piece and set about enjoying the sites with lots of wine and sangria in between. Here are my top 5 things to do in Barca:

1) Go to see Barcelona play at Nou Camp

2) Have a meal at Les Cants Neits (The 15th Night) in the square off The Ramblas- The food is like a party in your mouth.

3) Go to Sagrada Familia, the Gaudi temple – The best view of Barcelona.

4) Have an ice cream at Port Veil- You can feed the fish too.

5) Go to the beach at Port Olympic, sit back and enjoy the sunshine.

A lovely relaxing Birthday. Now, back to work!

Where have all the Superlambananas gone?

I am very sad to report that you can no longer find the SuperLambBananas scattered around the streetsof Liverpool. On Tuesday lots them were auctioned off for charity. This has put an end to my ideas of visiting them all. I hope someone is kind enough to put them all in one place i.e a museum after they have been sold so I might fulfill my dream. If you missed the auction don’t be too down in the dumps…the remaining ones will be auctioned off online on Tuesday 16th September. Visit here for more details. And don’t worry the original Superlambanana is still there.

Also, I noticed today that you can buy Bite Sized Superlambananas from the Superlambanana website. If you can’t afford or haven’t got room for one from the auction then you can get a yellow one like the original or white blank canvas one so you can design your own. SOLD!